Though widespread, the Jewish presence grows fragile. The Kochin community, thought to have been founded around the time of the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 C.E., now numbers only about 25 people.
For each community, she offers examples of the ways in which they have adapted to local ingredients and customs while preserving their identity as Jews and finding ways to keep kosher. Her notes on their histories and festival practices proceed short sections of recipes for distinctive dishes.